Hi

I found a very nice site about sexy ligerie photography tutorials, it is called smokingstrobes.com, site writer Michael Zelbel is kind of a master in using small flash units for those kind of photographs, probably the best sharing photographer in that area that I can recommend. In his site you’ll get lots, tons of info about lingerie photography in a funny and easy way, including videos, diagrams and examples

I want to inroduce you to two movies shared on his site and his YouTube channel:

First one is about photographing lingerie in your bedroom.

In this setup Michael uses only one flash and a Translucent Shoot Through White Umbrella. This setup is preaty easy and fast forward as you may see in the video bellow, Michael let you all the data to replicate this setup in your home or ourdoor shootout:

• Camera settings: 50mm Lens, F/2.8, ISO 100, manual WB 10000k.
• Shooting from above.
• One flash light: 100cm Translucent Shoot Through White Umbrella and a 58GN speedlite (something like the Canon 580EX, YN560 or Nikon SB900) at 1/32 power open wide for 28mm.
• Whenyou want to add some more lighting atmosphere to the setup, Michael added another flash to the models right setup for 1/32th power of a 43GN (like the Canon 430EXII or the popular YN460II). The flash shoot through a yellow colored bedside  lighting lamp, if you don’t have one you can just use a sunny gel filter.

Second video is all about using a high key setup for shooting those sexy photographs.

Michael used here the corridor as the location for this high key setup, you can actually use any part of your house, as you only need the white surrounding for getting the high key effect. How this is made? simple!!!

Using 3 flashes as you need a  big lighting source to paint the background with white light (used two of the here) and one flash to add the light into the model front.

Two Canon 580EX at 1/4th full power painting the background in white light zoomed wide open at 28mm.

One Canon 430EXII at 1/16th full power, zoomed at 80mm to create a good light directed to the model.

Camera: ISO 320, F/8 for a good depth , manual WB 5800K, about 2.6m from the model.

Remote control : Michael used here a sophisticated digital remote trigger , but when using manual modes for all flashes, I use normal budget triggers.

This is it, very simple, about 5 minutes videos to let you a good idea on how to shot lingerie setups!
I’ll be happy if your share that page in case you liked it.Any comments are welcomed!!!

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This post is a really sort one! I don’t know if ant of you heard of this small camera called Lytro, the cool thing about it that not only this camera can take pictures (is it can!!!) but the crazy shit here is that you don’t have to focus the camera to the point object you want to photograph. I can’t even explain exactly how it works as I see it as a magic trick and not technology .

Here is an easy video on how it works on your dashboard after you take the image using your Lytro camera:

And here is a quick cool and funny video about how it can change your approach to photography, cool!!!

I think the focusing stuff is made by something that is like a CT Scan at the hospital, it takes during one press of a button tens or hundreds of images in many focus points, that you can choose your desired image this the desired focus point the you choose, stunning!!!

There are some examples in the links below

http://blog.lytro.com/

http://www.lytro.com/living-pictures/279

http://blog.lytro.com/category/lytros-story/

There are currently two models on PRE-ORDER status on lytro site’s, so you can’t find it yet in the stores. Some general spces:

• For 399$ you can get the 8GB model, that will take up to 350 pictures (there will be also an 16GB model that will let you take about 750 “images”).
• Like Apple’s gadgets it comes with internal drive so you can’t add memory the your “camera”.
• The Lytro camera is armed with 8x optical zoom and a constant f/2 lens, that will get you plenty of exposure.
• They don’t tell the resolution yet as I don’t think you can meter this camera by resolution when you get so much more scene here…

What do you think about it?

PLEASE share as fast as possible

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Some time ago (it sounds like a kids story), there were no Wescot folding softboxes and no Ebay or chinice like products for even more tight budgets, so all you can get was or Bowens mount softboxes or what we called universal mount softbox. The only thing was, that even if you could get those universal mount softboxes, you’d have to manage a trick to put a small flash (off camera flash) in them, So if you have one of those sofboxes, Who are still sold on ebay and amazon for some strobes models, this post is for you.

Read more about the DIY Universal Softbox Small Flash Mounting Adapter (by Tomasz Nowak)

Tomasz put this one very easy to understand, all you have to do is to follow the images below and you’ll pretty sure make it. The flash mout is based on a wood plate, the size of the universal softbox mount and a hinge or pole, puting them together and you can go on and mount a small flash in the universal mount softbox:

Attach the flash to the pole in two ways, here Tomasz used a velcro peice to put them together, but you can use another adapter for holding any flash to umbrellas.

Tomasz had the guts to put two YN460II velcroed together (used it in the Zumba model setup)

Adding more tin foil to the wood base to get beter reflections.

Well thats it! I’d be happy if you comment here if you made this diy universal flash adpter or if you made other DIY idea on this project!

THNX!

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Hi, I read a post at dpreview written this guy Mark Watson, he has a very good super macro gallery on flickr - link, so he’ve been asked to share the way he got the right lighting for those macro images, so he did, and that’s ridiculously easy, handy and cheap!

Here we go:

Step 1: You mark on a piece of paper the head size of your strobist flash.

Step 2: Mark the flash head size on the pringles box and cut a hole in it , the size of your flash head.

Step 3: Making the front panel diffuser. Mark used here a  protection paper that came with a filter that he bought some tןme ago

Step 4 utting the front panel diffuser together. You’ll have to make sure its a bit bigger than the pringles, so you can close the box and the diffuser is boxed in.

Step 5: Attaching to the camera. Mark puts the flash on the camera with the Pringels tube and tilting the flash one click forward so the light will be directed to the front of the camera.

Some great results ,I actually don’t like this bug image, but hi its amazing details and perfect macro lighting for zero cash…

 I want you to share your DIY macro lighting or macro images!!!

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I got a copy of the YN-565EX for a quick review.I must say that I don’t have any YN flashes till now, as I still have plenty of Canon flashes, “collecting” them during the pre YN era. I’ll say that for my kind of flash use I don’t need any thing more complex than a flash with manual settings ,decent power and recycle times and that’s all. If I had to buy a set for strobist photography today, there is no doubt that the set will be mostly based on those Chinese strobes.
I must say that I don’t understand Canon’s legal department, how can they let YN COPY thier flash bit bit?! The YN565EX looks exactly like the 580EXII (minor differences) with 430EXI digital back, as if someone made a joke of Canon’s stuff…

But lets move on and see some specs about this new flash:

When you look for Canon brand flash for under 200$, you’ll only find the Canon 270EX who is a light one, but very low power. The amateur flash will be the 320EX (220$) or the 430EXII (+250$),  those ain’t cheap.

Here is my review for the YN565EX:

PROS:

• High power- GN58 is what canon offers with their 580EXII.
• Low weight – it weights less than the Canon 580EXII, although same size.
• Build quality – I must say that it looks very solid and I’m one that is used for Canon flash (no Vivitar and other 3rd party brands).
• Accuracy – This is the most important flash feature, I tested it for couple 100′s clicks and it looks very solid.
• Sound – It makes a beep while charging and ready sound (some my like it and some won’t).
• Slave modes – Has the S1 and S2 like their other flashes, but the big news are about their wireless control! It can be a wireless slave to the master Canon580EXII (I didn’t checked it yet with the 550EX , but I think it will work too).Being able to get an ETTL wireless ability from a 3rd party flash is a surprising feature, you could get thi one to work in groups and channels.

Cons:

• The big bummer with the YN565EX is the fact that he can’t sync fast (FP), so if your camera syncs 1/200th sec like my 5DMKII, thats the fastest shutter speed you can get here.
• I must say that I found some flaws in the YN565, but mostly because I’m used to my 580s.
• The YN565 has a hot-shoe lock like the 580EX – a rotation ring, not a lock gask like the 580EXII.
• Yongnuo copied well the buttons in the swivel head, but its not a lock button like in the other Canon flashes.
• The worst manual ever seen for any device on earth!!! But there is some funny sides to that – they actually used the same ducks diagrams for the wireless section as in Canon’s manual… There are pages there that you’d think that my 3 years old boy can write better. Guys, you decided to play the pro background – put some more minutes in the manual…
• Reputation.

 

 

Bottom line:

This flash is packed with features- high power, recycles fairly fast, has all the strobist features you’ll need (even a pc sync),ETTL and a very good price (about 160$) you could buy 2.5 YN565s at the price of one 580EXII…For normal use=home use and personal (not wedding photographer that flashes about 2000 per night) this unit is a very good option, especially if you consider Canon unit…

Personal thoughts:

I must say that I was sure that with the wireless control that puts this flash in a very apprising status, there will be also high speed sync, but no!!! This is my only disappointment from that flash. It costs less than the Nissin and Sigma who are the leading 3rd party “pro” flashes out there, but has the same and more features. This isn’t just a strobist flash but also a useful flash for 160$ bucks.

Recommended!!!

YN565EX provides a charging socket for an external power pack and a PC port for more connections.

I heard some times about other YN models that there are some problems with the battery doors, not with this one, feel EXACTLY like Canon's!

The YN565EX has a new LCD back display very similar to Canon's 580EXII, big +

Front view YN565EX

If you have any questions about the YN565EX please feel free to comment here, you’ll get fast personal answer!

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Hi, this time I want to introduce you with Tomasz Nowak (photography site and facebook page), Tomasz shoots weddings and children in Poland, but as I found out is a very talented strobist photographer. I first met this simple studio setup on strobox (a source for many ideas for any level photographers). Tomasz uses here a basic two light setup, the main light is made of two entry level YN460II strobist style flashes in a softbox front left side of the model (in the next post you’ll see how he fixed them in) and another YN460II as fill hair light through a snoot from the back opposite model’s side .

So lets dig in and see how its done!!!

Here is a simple sketch (I must say the he is also talented with sketching those)

This lighting setup is pretty easy to do:

• All the shots were shot with Nikon D700 and 85/1.8@f2.8, 1/200 and ISO 400.
• Softbox with 2 YN460II at 1/8th Power rather than having one Yn460II at 1/4th Power (so getting fast recycle times).
• Hair light YN460II with snoot from behind to get some good separation from the background.

Here are some general tips from Tomasz:

• some of the shots were done while the models were in motion, so i wanted to shoot couple of frames one after another. One speedlight  flash set to ¼ power recycles rather slowly but two of them, both set to ⅛ power recycle much faster. and I was able to shoot more frames at a time.
• a standard studio flash wouldn’t be helpful in this situation. Most of them recycle only to level of the required amount of power, so you’re not able to shoot a series of images because of recycle time.
• We have different situation when using speedlights – they always recycle to full power – that means if you have a flash set to ⅛ power you can theoretically shoot 8 frames before it’s empty.

Here are some more images taken in that set, we’ll be happy if you post your thoughts  here .

Your email:

 

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We had an article about panning photography a couple of month ago, you can read it here – Panning Photography.

In General panning is all about capturing images while the main photographed object is in some kind of move, what kind of movement? Any type, it can be a car just passing  by  or driving away, a scooter or an athlete running. Panning is known by effect created by following the photographed object while this camera movement to keep track of the main subject creates a blurred background behind the photographed model. To achieve this you have to shoot at slower shutter speeds than you would have if you just wanted to shoot a clear image.

The two key points to great panning effect:

1.The camera and the photographed subject are moving together synchronized as one body.

2.The camera’s shutter speed has to be slow enough to let the panning effect take place. Not to slow so the photographed object will be blurred too and not to fast so the blur effect will be created.

You can see that both rules mentioned above are kept. The first – being in sync with the model isn’t so hard in this case, as we sit in opposite sides of a carousel, so we actually move together , but the trickiest part here is to set the proper shutter speed , this one was perfect at 1/25th sec and a wide 24mm, but the lens is Canon 24-105 f/4 with IS, so if you don’t have IS so should set your gear at least a half stop faster. The fun thing here is that you can do this trick with almost any pocket camera that will allow you basic manual settings.

If you’ll try slower shutter speeds you’ll get a decent amount of blur on your object, this what you might get if you go at 1/8th sec:

So what about you? Show me what you can do!

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Hey, I wanted to share with you a very talented photographer, Ben Sant, based in the USA.

Ben has on his blog some very useful behind the scene tutorials for portrait and fashion photography using small of camera flashes, like we all love to use.

I include here two of his videos, one covering some tips on one of his winter fashion shots. en has a very unique way to explain stuff and a fresh approach to photography, so I’m pretty sure you’ll enjoy this.

On the winter set he mainly uses only one flash, trigger and a 43 inch studio umbrella (and a boom stand), this type of studio equipment is very affordable and I’m pretty sure most of you reads own this combination.

This video covers two basic concepts:

1. Underexposing the background about 1 stop for getting black and contrasted shadows.It is very important to under expose the background when photographing snow. Snow is one of the trickiest modes the camera’s light meter can face , so Ben tips us to check the images histogram while shooting so we don’t over expose the snow.

2.Lighting up the model with the main flash. Ben uses a Nikon SB-800 and a 43inch fordable umbrella on a book lightstand pointing the model from above.

Bottom line-

I really like Ben’s work and I’m pretty sure I’ll post about him in he future as he has another couple of great videos both outdoor location and indoor.

You can keep track with  Ben’s work on his video channels and blog (I’m listed to all three!)

Blog

Vimeo

YouTube

Big Ben comment and tips to this post: (04/12/2011)

I am quite humbled and honored to have been featured here in DIYphotographystuff.  I started created behind the scene and lighting tutorials several years ago when one day I sat down and reflected on how difficult it was to learn the technicalities and basics of photography.  It is a cutthroat industry where secrets are rarely shared in fear that one day we may become each other’s competition.  With the advent of digital imaging and death of film (in a profitable) photography business, more and more people are picking up ever easy to use DSLR’s and trying their luck at profiting in photography.  While perhaps we may be the death of our own kind; which is a completely different discussion, I decided that a “no secrets” approach in educating novice and amateur photographers would be the decent thing to do.  As a cinematographer, it was really no extra effort to bring my film crew along with me on my conceptual portraits and strobist-oriented shoots.

If there is one concept and point to be gained, it is to get your camera out of manual and “semi” manual modes i.e.: Av, Tv, P, etc. and get into Manual mode.  Learn the basics of exposure and how The Big Three- ISO/ASA, Aperture, and Shutter affect each other.  Learn to capture images using natural light before moving in to off camera and artificial lighting.  Once you are comfortable with getting around in all types of natural light, you may step into strobes and speedlights.  Again, learn to use them in Manual mode, not TTL!

1.  There is no need to buy the newest and most expensive flash on the market.  All you need is a flash with a Manual mode, adjustable power output, and a sync port to connect your radio trigger or other device.  Old Nikon SB-24′s, 25′s, etc. will do just fine and cost less than a 100 USD.

2.  Get the flash off the camera.  On camera lighting or bounce lighting is going to be flat and non dimensional as it is on the  camera axis.  Remember we are capturing images in a 3-dimensional world and changing them in to a 2-dimensional photograph.  Depth and Dimension have to be created by manipulating the direction, quality, and quantity of light.

3.  Get out and shoot!   You can read all the resources and literature out there.  But unless you are out in the field honing your techniques, expressing your artistic creativity, and challenging yourself you won’t go very far.

4.  Set an example and be professional.  My work entails me in shooting a lot of models.  Don’t be the typical “GWC” (guy with a camera).  If your intent is see beautiful people of the opposite sex in the nude or close to it, you’re in the wrong business.  Don’t use photography as a tool to get others to get in exploitative circumstances so you may fulfill your own private fantasies.  There are plenty of these guys ruining our industry as it is.  You’ll notice on my site there is no images of lingerie, oiled-up women in bikinis, or showing off there bits and nether regions. Although I am not against those concepts.- Fine Art Nude Imagery can be amazing…  But as there are so many GWC’s shooting these themes, I want to distinguish myself as someone who is different.  I’ve made my success on shooting what everyone else isn’t.  I find it wise that you do the same.

Resources:

I find the following site as avenues for inspiration and education:

http://www.fstoppers.com

http://www.strobist.com

http://www.deviantart.com

http://www.photovision.com

http://www.500px.com

And lastly check out Framed.  The have content for each day of the week.  The main episodes each Tuesday are something you don’t want to miss.  Check out my Monday segment titled “Equip Tips” to go into the geeky side of gear and hardware  http://www.framedshow.com

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This time I want to introduce you with Matan Eshel a very talented proffesional Photographer from Israel, mainly photographing landscape,portraits and fashion photography. You can see some of his beauty work in his online gallery – Matan Eshel Photography .

Matan writes here on his view on creating 3D view in photography, so please read and comment below for further questions or i

In our everyday life we see the world in 3 dimensions Height, Width and Depth. But unlike in reality pictures are 2 dimensional, the lack the 3rd and arguably the most important dimension, Depth.

Adding Depth to an picture can be done with a very basic but very complex tool… Light.

Light can give your picture Depth both figuratively and physically. Technically a picture is light. Or rather a picture is  light captured on by your camera weather its digital or film.
Lighting in 3D, or more correctly Lighting the 3rd dimension, what we will be talking about, It doesn’t matter how you light it, weather its Natural lighting, Studio Lighting or like what I’m will be using “Strobist Lighting”.

For those of you who are unfamiliar with concept of being “Strobist”. It’s using your run-of-the-mill flash off camera, and in that seemingly simple action, a whole new world of creative lighting is opens up to you. For those of you who want to learn the basis I suggest you read David Hobbie’s, Blog,  Strobist.Com. It’s excellent! And if you are gonna learn this stuff, learning it from the guy who practically invented it, is the way to go.

But time to get Down N’ Dirty and start talking about 3D lighting.
So how do we take a picture, that while has only 2 dimensions feels realistic and that has depth?
Like we said before Light, or the Lack of light. Lighting an Object in a specific way and creating shadows or just areas which are less lit can give us that depth.
I’ll show you how each photo was made, but  I’m going to focus on the Idea of “lighting in 3D” and less about the technical aspect because there are people, like David Hobby that explain far better than me.

So let’s get to the first picture,

Now aside from the Black/White conversion I didn’t do any Photoshop to the picture.
This very serious looking man is in fact my Dad, whom took a few quick shots of for an article I wrote at the time but it’s very relevant to us here, why?

Take a close look at the picture, now it might have different issues with it, but what I want you to focus here is on the light and the lack of light in different parts of the picture. See how shadows created giving the sense of texture? it is the lack of light in the some parts of the photo. Such as the shirt, the shadow to the side of right on the head, the shadows in his forehead. Those elements help you define depth in a 2 dimensional photo. Now let’s jump over real quick to the technical side, the set-up is rather simple a reflective Umbrella located to the left tilted down towards my subject.
Here is a picture:

Ok, so let’s break it down why did I place the lighting there? Approximately 45 degrees from the subject (it’s a bit warped I shot the set-up with a Super-wide angel lens).  Placing the light at an angle to my subject, and not with On-Camera Flash allows me to move freely without having to worry about the lighting. But the main point here is that placing the flash at an angle allows me to create shadows and the harsh light on my subject. Placing light at different angles weather it’s sideways or Up/Down can and in most cases will change the whole picture. it will also Make or Break a picture.
Since I wanted to give my Dad a certain look, a harsh, very serious look I chose to use strong shadows that would show off his “Personal texture”.

What did you Use?
I used a Nikon SB 28 with a radio transmitter (Cactus V4 to be exact) as my light source and placed it on a light stand. The Flash was pointed into a reflective Umbrella. What is a Reflective Umbrella?
Quiet Simply, Exactly what it says, the internal Part of the umbrella is reflective and bounces light back, it helps you control where the light is going to hit. it also makes your light source bigger.
If you are unfamiliar with them I suggest you read about them on link I gave you at the beginning, there is a whole article dedicated to them.

But let’s take it a few notches up, and get more a little more technical to help understand the idea behind all of this. Here we won’t just be using shadows to define an object, but also use different “Levels” of light. What do I mean by “Levels”? Levels refer to the intensity of the light as it falls onto the object. In this picture you will see how the light falls differently on different parts of the object. This picture has a much more complex set up but the idea is the same to use light to define an object.

It’s not easy but take a few moments and try to see if you can reverse engineer the picture, reflections are normally the best way. You look long enough and try to analyze it you can see that it isn’t a single light source. But the idea here was that shadows and the and different levels of light would help me define the bottle and give it a feeling of depth. By the way has been Photoshoped but no changes to the lighting were made mostly contrast, cleanup and color. And the picture isn’t a hidden ad, it’s just to prove a point

As you get better and more familiar with lighting reverse engineering photos will be easier and will help you better understand how a picture was made. It’s also a good way to practice your lighting, a good website I highly recommend is Strobox.com , it’s a community site where people not only share their photos but how the made the photo, how the light was positioned, it  helps a lot.

Anyway back to the picture of the wine bottle…
Figured it out yet? Don’t feel bad if you didn’t like I said it’s rather complex…
Here is a picture of the set up

First the Gear that i used:

1. backdrop – a reflector turned to its black side to used to as a background
2. Front Light – A Nikon SB 26 with Rogue Honey-comb on it to focus and to light the label
3. Back Light – 2 Nikon SB 28′s with Laccolite Hotrod Strip Softbox
4. Base – Simple black cardboard that you can buy anywhere with a sheet of plastic to give it some additional strength.This is a 3 light set up, I’ll break it down to 2 parts:

• “Carving in light” – shaping
  The first part are 2 of my most trusted flashes, Nikon SB 28′s in long softboxes (Lastolite Striplights) , positioned at both sides of the bottle slightly to the back (I’ll explain why in a bit why they are position to the back). Those lights are designed to define the outlines of the bottle, take a look at the picture again, see those 2 white strips at the sides of the bottle? Those are the 2 flashes in softboxes on either side, here is a photo just using those 2 lights
• 

See how the sides of the bottle are well lit and yet how the center of the bottle is getting less light?, that is  exactly is why I positioned the Flashes slightly to the back.
For those of you Unfamiliar with softboxes, they are pretty much the same Idea as the reflective umbrella but just another step Forward. They increase the size of your light source and allow you control just as the ordinary reflective umbrella but to a much greater degree, they are considered a must for every studio photographer.

Back to the picture at hand, I wanted define the edges but without getting too much light on the center, because I wanted to center to be at “A higher level” then the sides so the label will be clearly visible.

• “The Punch” – the key light

Now it’s time to light the key element of the picture, which in this case is the label of the wine, I used a 3rd flash using a Honey-Comb (Or Grid) which is used to focus the light in a round pattern to light. Honey-Combs/Grids are part of Constrictive Lighting – Limiting and controlling you light with great precision. In this Case I used a Rogue Honey-Comb which is a wonderful little product I was asked to try out. The flash here is quiet close to the bottle to get as accurate as I could but without the Honey-Comb it would have blasted the whole bottle, and that would defeat the whole point of this exercise. As I said before the honey-comb limits the light and also shape it in a round pattern the center of the bottle. The honey-comb was set to 16 Degrees -When using Grids or honey-Combs you will often see a degree number that specifies exactly at how constrictive it is. O.K after that not-so-short explanation let’s see what we got.
here is the final result

The front flash adds another level of light and defines the label
The Honey-Comb restricts the light from going to places we don’t want it to go.

What I want to say here is whether its multiple light sources or a  single light source, can help you create different levels of light, shadows and tell whole stories just with light.
Always keep in mind when you are shooting with artificial lighting (whether it’s in an environment with or without natural light), where your lighting is in regards to you subject, if it’s a person moving around or an object, because it is that light that will define your subject and will help you express yourself in the picture.

Anyway I hope you enjoyed this piece…

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As I promised in the previous post, I have some new stuff, this time I’m showing a simple setup using two lights.

This setup is based on the previous one, you can read here (Dramatic Product Photography using just one light and a grid) while adding a new light to paint the background.

The main light aimed at the object from above and through a simple EBay grid for flash and the second one is from low-behind with some small flash gel pack you can get a amazon for about 10$ and my DIY Gel Flash holder .

I include here an image of the setup:

 The flash on the floor is directed to the wall behind the miniature toy lighting the background and the main light lighting the bear from above.

 So how would you do it? Please cpmment your thoughts below!

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